Savage 110 trigger job by Swamprat

I want to start this by saying I am not a gunsmith.  This is the first time I ever worked on a Savage trigger.  Don't take this as a how to on anything.  This is what I did.  Work on your own guns at your own risk.

I got the Timney Trigger for the Savage 110 338 today. It was a simple fix, pop out an e-clip and pin, remove the old one, install the new one, reinstall the pin and e-clip and adjust. I wound up with about a 4 lb. trigger and a safety that works. I really like the Timney Trigger, it has a completely different spring configuration than the Savage. I want to get one for the little Stevens 200.

The old trigger had a long pin-like spring held in place by a retaining nut on one end, a small protrusion in middle of the trigger and a bigger one on the back.  It was held in place by tension.  A screw in the center of the trigger adjusted the tension.

The Timney Trigger has a coil spring that fits in the hole above the trigger pull adjustment screw. It is a lot more adjustable and works a lot better.  You lose the retaining nut and old spring.

The new trigger came with an e-clip and spring and complete instructions.  Here it is in the rifle.

The whole process took 20 minutes or less.  The front screw adjusts the sear engagement.  The one directly behind the trigger is trigger pull, the next on adjusts the safety and the last one is over travel.  It's pretty simple.  If I adjusted lower than 4 lb. I could bounce the recoil pad off the floor and trip the firing pin with the safety off.  It would hold on safe or the middle setting on the safety where you can still work the bolt without fail.  But if you dropped it with the safety off it could possibly fire.  No problem set at 4 lbs. or above.  Not sure if that's normal or if I need a new safety and safety spring,  I may try that just to see.  But 4 lbs is ok for a hunting rifle, at least I think so.

Swamprat